The battle of Dubno/Brody, in nowadays Ukraine, was the biggest tank clash of history with over 4000 tanks battling each other in a triangle between the cities of Dubno, Lutsk and Brody. To represent it in RF! terms you would need 800+ tank models for this short period of summer 41 in the East. It also includes some models that for sure are not the wargamer´s favorites like PzIII short 50mm; T-26, BT-7, etc (not counting a football field to play it all). Even if sometimes I exaggerate I don´t intend to reach those numbers due to the danger of bankruptcy and expulsion from home. Even so I´m around one Soviet Mechanized corps ( a mix of the 8th and 15th) and one full Panzer division for this short period of time without brown camouflage and short guns on tanks (a generic PzIII G/H/J based one, capable also of other campaigns like the Balkans and Greece).
Two more giant T-35 from S-models were added to the 68th Tank regiment. With four now in the inventory maybe I´ll build another two and settle the issue: the proposed ten by Master Richard is just too much considering they arrived in very small groups and many broke down. Hmmm... but 10 is tempting!..
Eight more BT-7 were added making a total of 15 enough for 2/3 Tank battalions depending on the unit. All my BT-7 are Mário Laranja´s great 3d resin prints. This company got a camouflage of brown 6K as used by some tanks of the 4th Mechanized corps in Ukraine.
Again some 4th Mechanized corps painting influence with just a white triangle for air recognition on top of the turret.
The markings of these two BT-7 came from 39th Tank Division at the battle of Uman.
This kind of camouflage was taken from the 24th Brigade of Light Tanks, Rostov-on-Don. This camouflage was quite common and I used it also on my BT-5 and consisted of the basic 4BO color with stripes of 6RP and 7K.
A few more Xan Miniatures with the padded helmet.
Lastly a pair of Self-propelled AA MG 4M-GAZ-AAA (Uffff...) from Minigeneral PLA 3d prints with Revell converted crew with the help of GreenStuff.
The built is very simple and the result is quite sturdy. The soft plastic figures were glued to several parts of the vehicles for them to have a firm grip.
The printed plastic had two coats of clear varnish before priming for the printing lines to become insignificant.
The last batch of Mário Laranja's PzIII H necessary for the (undetermined) 1941 Panzer Division with PSC crews.
This company commander tank got a turret MG. I'm not sure if this system, the Fliegerbeschussgerät (my goodness, he even knows German...) was used of the late versions of the PZ III short 50mm as all my references are for the late versions of this tank. Even so it looks nice and makes a difference in the lot.
Next: Probably a video on the French DCR of 1940 or the last few British tanks for the 1st British Armored Division of 1940.
Looking great, one of my fave periods & not one we've played for ages!
ReplyDeleteEnjoy the games chum, best wishes,
Jeremy
Thanks. The more I read about Barbarossa the more I enjoy this period.
Deleteall the best
jp
Great work JP! I love these early war tanks and good to see a mix of Soviet camo schemes too:)
ReplyDeleteThanks Steve. Camo in ww2 USSR is much more interesting than I would think years ago both in tanks and aircraft. Lots of info today, fortunately.
DeleteNeed to sort my quad maxim AA crews as well, thanks for the hints
ReplyDeleteNot easy to find crews for these ones but plastic and Greenstuff match very well.
DeleteSuperb post, as usual. What green paint do you use for the Russian armour? I am not really very satisfied with the green I am using.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Chris
I use the Vallejo Russians green just because I always did and a new colour like the ones from Mig would cause differences in the groups. Its in fact an aviation colour but after the black wash and highlight with 50% Russian green+50% white it becomes close to the Russian 4BO.
DeleteHm. I use the Vallejo Russian green too (starting with the primer colour and then the paint). So your technique is to give the entire vehicle a black wash and then a dry brush of a lightened Russian green? Looks great.
DeleteYes. Try to apply the black acrylic wash mostly on the crevices leaving some areas plain main colour. It will create some nice effects after the drybrush
DeleteFunnily enough I use that technique too, but do not lighten the final dry brush. Will give that a go. Cheers,
DeleteChris
The lightened dry brush has to do with that theory that miniatures should always be lighter in color compared with real size.
DeleteFabulous Joāo,
ReplyDeleteA great looking battlegroup
Cheers
Matt
Thanks Matt. Cheers
DeleteBrilliant - live the T-35's
ReplyDeleteI have got to get back to the two I have on the stocks
Thanks Geordie. You have to love these big and useless machines.
Delete